I stopped for a snowball in Henderson last summer, the bow of my bright blue kayak poking up from the bed of my truck, and by the stares it got from the people in line, you’d have sworn I’d just come from Alaska. “What is that?” “Where do you go with that thing?” “What do you do when you get there?” The owner of the snowball stand, serving me my coconut snowball, leaned out onto the counter to get a closer look.

To be fair, kayaks are somewhat out of their element here in the subtropics, hailing as they do from the subarctic zone. (Kayak comes from the Greenlandic word qajaq.) If I’d have been pulling a pirogue, a canoe or an aluminum skiff behind me, no one would have noticed. But the beauty of the kayak is precisely its versatility, its ability to adapt to a variety of terrains and find use in a wide range of environments—watery environments, specifically. With all the water here in St. Martin Parish, a kayak is a natural fit.

For the last two years, once or twice a week, I’ve been exploring the parish by kayak—the wild Atchafalaya, historic Bayou Teche, the bird paradise of Lake Martin, the forks of Catahoula Lake, and many smaller waterways that have never had a reason to be named—anywhere I could slip a kayak in. As a contributing writer for St. Martin Parish Tourism, my goal was to document the area’s one-of-a-kind landscapes and shine a spotlight on the natural assets of the parish. As parish liaison for the Louisiana Recreational Trails Program, my goal was to make an inventory of public paddle trails to help facilitate access for trail-seekers. And as a native of St. Martin Parish—I grew up in Catahoula—my goal was to get to know this patch of Earth I call home a little bit more deeply than I used to.

What I didn’t know when I started out, I can now state with confidence. St. Martin Parish is ideal for kayaking. Not only because of the sheer number of waterways, but also because of the extraordinary variety of waterways. Bayous, bays, lakes, coulées, even a major river, shapeshifting from season to season, such that when you go back to a place you have already been, that place might look totally different. There’s a sandbar at the bend of the river now, yellow flowers are carpeting the forest floor, or the river’s at sixteen feet and muscadine grapes are in season. And with temperate weather year-round—only rarely does it go below freezing—you can be out on the water pretty much any day of the year.

Kayaking is the hiking of St. Martin Parish. Instead of hiking trails, we have paddle trails. Instead of trailheads, we have boat launches. And here is your handy trail guide. I’ve included descriptions and photographs of top kayaking destinations in the parish, with geolocations for boat launches, maps of established paddle trails, suggestions for new paddle trails—in progress—and up-to-date information on kayak rentals in the parish. Whether you prefer staying close to populated areas along Bayou Teche, exploring the swamps around Butte La Rose, or venturing out into the remote areas of the Atchafalaya, the parish offers more opportunities for kayaking than even the most avid kayaker could exhaust.

The Landscape

In Utah a few Aprils ago, perched at the summit of Angels Landing in Zion Canyon, looking down at the ancient riverbed more than a quarter of a mile below me, all that orange rock rising up from the earth’s crust, I couldn’t quite wrap my head around the fact that that canyon had remained in exactly the same place, in roughly the same shape, for millions and millions of years. It was such a contrast to St. Martin Parish, where the very ground is always in flux.

The Atchafalaya Basin, which forms the eastern half of the parish, was formed from sediment flowing into the open waters of the Gulf of Mexico through distributary channels of the Mississippi River. In other words, all sand and silt and clay and water, layers and layers of river deposits. There’s no naturally-occurring stone in St. Martin Parish, and waterways present no sudden drop-offs, so there’s no whitewater anywhere. (Although it should be noted that the Atchafalaya River, the fifth largest river in North America by discharge, is no slouch, achieving currents up to seven miles per hour during periods of high water.) Instead, water tends to pool in slow-moving bodies of water, and currents, when present, are minimal.

The wetlands are overwhelmingly green, and unlike more open terrains, the landscape reveals itself gradually, graceful canopies of vegetation opening up into unexpected pockets of water. The crowns of the trees along the banks of a bayou, if the bayou is narrow enough, might meet in the middle above you, forming a leafy dome, so that as you’re paddling your kayak, you’re floating through a tunnel of greenery, and when the sun is oblique in the sky, sunlight can glitter off the rippling surface of the water, projecting its glassy reflections onto the vegetation around you. A canyon can’t shimmer like that.

The Atchafalaya Basin, the vast river swamp running down the entire eastern half of St. Martin Parish, forms part of the Mississippi Flyway, where more than 325 bird species are known to travel round-trip each year, from their breeding grounds in Canada and the northern United States to their wintering grounds along the Gulf of Mexico and in Central and South America. And resident birds are plentiful year-round throughout the parish. Lake Martin, in particular, is recognized as an Important Bird Area by the National Audubon Society.

And there are three vast conservation areas—wetland set aside for public use and wildlife preservation—either partly or wholly within St. Martin Parish. The Sherburne Complex Wildlife Management Area (44,000 acres)—the Indian Bayou Area (28,000 acres)—and the Attakapas Island Wildlife Management Area (28,000 acres). All are free and available for the public to use any time of the day. The parish also oversees and maintains ten boat ramps—also free. Lake Fausse Pointe State Park, which straddles St. Martin and Iberia, offers low-cost day-use passes, no reservations needed, with on-site kayak rentals and access to miles of paddle trails.

Top Kayaking Destinations

St. Martin Parish is a kayaker’s dream. Here are my top recommendations for kayaking destinations in the parish.

Bayou Teche

Bayou Teche is one of the most popular waterways for kayaking. The Bayou Teche Paddle Trail runs right down the length of the parish, with four floating kayak docks, all well-maintained and easy to access, in Arnaudville, Breaux Bridge, Parks and St. Martinville. Mile markers are present throughout the course of the paddle trail. Paddle from town to town, or put your kayak in at the launch and explore the nearby bridges from bayou level. Bayou Teche is a good option for beginning kayakers, but unless you know how to portage around Keystone Lock and Dam five miles south of St. Martinville—you probably don’t!—it’s best to end your paddling at Evangeline Oak Park.

Lake Martin

Even in a state teeming with picturesque waterways, Lake Martin stands out as a gem. Eight hundred acres of flooded cypress-tupelo forest, the broad, shallow lake features a wide-open area in the middle and shaded coves all along its perimeter. To experience Lake Martin at its most sublime, go there in the early morning. Set off in your kayak just before sunrise and float among the cypresses, listening to the bird’s dawn chorus. It’s like being in a giant birdhouse, except the floor is made of water, and the walls are made of trees, and the roof opens up to a sky. You will probably see an alligator or two at Lake Martin. For some, this is a dream; for others, a nightmare. Please be alert. The lake is conveniently located between Lafayette, Breaux Bridge and St. Martinville, and Champagne’s Swamp Tours, one of three places to rent kayaks in the parish, is located close to the landing.

Catahoula Lake

Legend holds that the sacred lake was formed when the earth cracked open one day, swallowing an encampment of natives and leaving behind a deep new pocket of water. Visiting it today, you can still feel a sense of the sacred. The lake and surrounding bayous are popular with fishermen year-round, but they’re also great opportunities for kayaking.

There’s a parish boat launch at Clayton Boudreaux Memorial Park. Head south, and in a quarter of a mile, the lake will begin to fork into a network of bayous and islands. Head north, go under the bridge, and in a quarter of a mile you’ll see the cut to Bayou Mercier on your right. Or keep heading north through the belly of Catahoula Lake, and the lake will eventually bend to the west to become Bayou Berard.

Henderson Lake

Henderson Lake, also called Henderson Swamp, is a six-thousand-acre, permanently flooded depression in the Atchafalaya Basin. It varies in size and depth throughout the year, depending on the stage of the Atchafalaya River, and the control structure downstream from the lake. Because of its mutability, it’s one of those places that can appear different every time you visit. It’s a great place to paddle right up to cypress trees, and the combination of shaded and open areas present a variety of interest to a kayaker.

There are four private boat launches at the southern edge of Henderson Lake. At Kern’s Landing, through a self-serve system, you can park and put your kayak in the water for two dollars. After a short paddle down an access canal you will enter Henderson Lake. Turtle’s Landing and McGee’s Landing are closer to the water, as is Cypress Cove Landing, one of three places in the parish where you can rent kayaks by the hour.

Indian Bayou

Deep in the flooded forests of Indian Bayou, it’s easy to step into the past and imagine what the Atchafalaya was like at its wildest. Not to be confused with the community in Vermilion Parish, the Indian Bayou Area is a 28,500-acre wilderness area located in the heart of the Atchafalaya Basin. Owned and managed by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, it was established in 1995 to preserve the natural environment, its native plants and animals, and to provide public access for hiking, hunting, boating and fishing. The vast area straddles St. Martin and St. Landry parishes and encompasses the stretch of the Basin between the Atchafalaya River and the Henderson Levee Road north of Interstate 10. There are many access points into the Indian Bayou Area. Here are two good spots for launching a kayak.

West Dixie Landing

A public boat launch on the western edge of the Indian Bayou Area can be easily accessed from Interstate 10. Exit at Henderson (Exit 115) and take Highway 347 south. Immediately turn left onto Highway 352 and head east for two and a half miles until the road ends at Pat’s Fisherman’s Wharf. Take a left on the levee road and drive four miles north to the West Dixie Landing, which will be on your right. There’s a parking lot, a restroom and a well-maintained boat launch here.

From the landing, the access channel is a straight shot into the heart of the Basin and Henderson Swamp. Be prepared. The way the bayous twist and turn, they aren’t always intuitive to navigate. A variety of waterways branch off of the access channel, including Bayou Fordoche, Bayou Fusilier and twenty-four miles of officially designated paddling trails. There are few boaters in the area, if there are any at all, and you are immediately immersed in the sights and sounds of the Atchafalaya—woodpeckers, ibises, bullfrogs, ducks, etc.—with lots of shaded areas and narrow canals that open up into small bays. The area is especially enjoyable when the river stage is over twelve feet.

Oxbow Lake

Oxbow Lake is a meander of the Atchafalaya River that is cut off from the flow of water during certain times of the year. It’s a great place to kayak, and when the water is high enough, it’s an interesting way to access the Atchafalaya River. From Interstate 10, exit at Butte la Rose (Exit 121—Atchafalaya Welcome Center) and follow the levee road north approximately five miles. The clearly marked Oxbow Parking Area will be on your right. A gravel road leading away from the parking lot into the woods will get you to the landing. You can unload your kayak there.

There’s never a very strong current in Oxbow Lake, and there’s a good chance you will have the entire lake to yourself. In early spring, yellow wildflowers carpet every visible surface. In summer the lake is surrounded by green. There’s a passage at the northern end of the oxbow that leads out onto the Atchafalaya River. If the river stage is too low to paddle directly into the river, you can portage your kayak by dragging it across a narrow isthmus. Be alert. Those whorls in the tall grass may be alligator nests.

Lake Fausse Pointe

Lake Fausse Pointe State Park is a six thousand acre site straddling St. Martin and Iberia Parishes. The park is notable for the access it provides to Lake Dauterive, Lake Fausse Pointe and the surrounding wetland wilderness, and for the cabins, campsites, trails and other recreational amenities it offers.

A boat launch located near the entrance station provides access to the lakes and smaller waterways that surround the park. Canoes, kayaks and fishing boats are available for rental, and an extensive network of well-marked water trails have been designated for public use.

Lake Fausse Pointe State Park is located south of I-10, approximately 18 miles northeast of St. Martinville on the West Atchafalaya Protection Levee Road. To access the Levee Road from St. Martinville, take LA 96 to LA 679, then to LA 3083. Turn right onto Levee Road for 8 miles.

Butte La Rose

No other place can claim to be the heart of Atchafalaya as credibly as Butte La Rose can. The community is nestled against a wide meandering of the Atchafalaya River, and residents remain closely tied to the river and other nearby waterways. So many waterways surround Butte La Rose—Butte La Rose Canal, Bayou La Rose, Henderson Lake, Lake Bigeaux, Lake Pelba—it’s as close to an island as you can get without actually being an island.

There are only two roads to Butte La Rose, and one of those roads is blocked until summer of 2023 while a new bridge is being built. At the moment, the Atchafalaya River Highway (State Highway 3177) is the only road into Butte La Rose. It’s accessible from Exit 121 off Interstate 10, just east of Henderson. Three public boat ramps are located in Butte La Rose, and one private campground provides access to a boat launch.

Dick Davis Campground

Uncle Dick Davis Campground is a parish-operated campground located in Butte La Rose, seven miles from the Welcome Center. Seventeen full hook-ups along the Butte La Rose Canal, as well as tent sites, are available on a first come, first serve basis. There’s a boat launch on site, a dock for fishing and a playground. All are free to the public, whether staying at the campground or not. A remnant of the old pontoon bridge has been relocated to the campground, and is an interesting piece of history to visit. The boat ramp provides access to the Butte La Rose Bay, and Henderson Lake is less than two miles away.

Atchafalaya Welcome Center

Conveniently located at the Butte La Rose exit, this welcome center may be the most beautiful in the state. Excellent for an overview of the area, the center is staffed with knowledgeable people, well stocked with informational brochures and features interesting exhibits highlighting the culture and geography of the Atchafalaya. There’s always free coffee during business hours. The Atchafalaya Boat Landing can be accessed by the small road next to the entrance to the Welcome Center. From there, you can explore the area under the Basin Bridge, Lake Pelba, Lake Bigeaux and Henderson Lake.

Atchafalaya River Boat Ramp

This public boat ramp is five miles from the Welcome Center, where the Atchafalaya River Highway (State Highway 3177) intersects with Herman Dupuis Road (Parish Road 196). An ample parking lot and wide boat ramp provide easy access to the Atchafalaya River for boats of any size. Once the main channel of the Atchafalaya River, today this section of the river is considered the back channel, with most marine traffic taking the Whiskey Bay Pilot Channel instead, bypassing Butte La Rose. The Atchafalaya River is the largest waterway in the parish, and is not recommended for novice kayakers.

Cajun Heritage Campground

This private campground has a boat launch from which you can access Gin Slough, a waterway tucked among the back bays between Lake Bigeaux and the Atchafalaya River. Day-use pass is $10, which provides access to the boat launch and other amenities at the campground.

Bayou Amy

The community of Henderson is surrounded by water on all sides, with water even running through it. On the “wet” side of the levee lies Henderson Swamp, Lake Pelba, Lake Bigeaux and too many smaller waterways to list. On the “dry” side of the levee, running right past Pat’s Fisherman’s Wharf is Bayou Amy—pronounced ah-me—a narrow waterway with connections to Bayou Portage, Bayou Berard and Bayou Mercier.

A parish-run boat ramp just south of the bridge in Henderson is free and available for public use year-round. Kayakers should be aware that alligators have been known to swim in the waters past Pat’s, where they have learned to expect food from tourists eating there. Bayou Portage, just north of the bridge, cuts a path into the heart of Old Henderson.

Bayou Benoit

Tucked into the southeast corner of Upper St. Martin is the Bayou Benoit Boat Launch. The boat launch is accessed from the Bayou Benoit Levee Road, a continuation of the Catahoula Levee Road as it heads south toward Iberia Parish, just before reaching Lake Fausse Pointe State Park. From the boat launch, you have access to the sprawling network of bayous in the area.

The parish recently made improvements to the boat launch, raising the ramp approach and parking area by several feet with well-compacted limestone.

Sherburne

Sherburne Wildlife Management Area is located in the northeast corner of Upper St. Martin Parish, on the east side of the Atchafalaya River. Together with the adjacent Atchafalaya National Wildlife Refuge and another large tract of wetland owned by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, this 43,000-acre reserve are public lands set aside for recreation

Take the Whiskey Bay exit of I-10 and head north on Hwy 975. A well-maintained limestone road leads to the entrance of Sherburne Wildlife Management Area. Kayakers visiting the reserve are required to have a permit, which can be obtained at no cost at the entrance. You can fill out a paper permit at the entrance station and return it to the collection box on your way out. Or permits can also be obtained via a smartphone app. There are two public boat launches on Big Alabama Bayou, and there is one public launch on the northern portion of Little Alabama Bayou.

Safety

—What about alligators? Kayakers in St. Martin Parish are likely to encounter alligators. The good news is that alligators aren’t aggressive. Alligators, often visible just below the surface, are sensitive to sounds and tend to take cover underwater when a kayaker approaches. Be alert to your surroundings. If you do see an alligator, hang back at least thirty feet, knock your paddle against the side of your kayak and wait for the alligator to swim away. Never approach or attempt to feed an alligator.

—The silver carp is the one exception to the general rule that animals won’t randomly jump out of the water and into your kayak. This invasive fish, up to four feet long in length, can jump several feet out of the water. One time, a silver carp jumped out of the water and landed in my kayak.

—Mosquitoes are less of an issue out on open water than they are in dense vegetation, or even in residential areas. Gnats can be a nuisance. I usually pack one spray for insects and a separate spray for gnats and decide whether or not to apply once I’m out on the water. Many times it isn’t necessary. OFF, or similar products, are less effective for gnats than they are for mosquitoes. For gnats, I use NO-NATZ, a product made from citronella, lemongrass and rosemary oils.

—Cell coverage can be spotty, depending on your carrier. Take screenshots of maps of the area you are exploring so that you can have them available on your camera roll if you need them. Let someone know where you will be going, and travel with a buddy.

—In the wildlife management areas, certain sections are set aside for hunting. Familiarize yourself with the hunting seasons when visiting these areas.

—Consider some form of protection from the sun—a board-brimmed hat, long sleeves, sunscreen.

—Always use a life preserver.

—Always bring water and a snack.

—Consider packing a whistle, a pocket knife and a bandanna.

—Currents in St. Martin Parish waterways, except for the Atchafalaya River, are minimal. For this reason, when kayaking the Atchafalaya River itself, I recommend avoiding the “sit-on-top” type kayaks.

—Kayakers often share a waterway with faster moving motorboats, which can generate a sizable wake as they pass. Point your kayak into the oncoming waves of the wake, so that you meet them head on. This way, you avoid being rocked sideways.

—You are much more likely to fall getting in or out of a kayak, than you are to capsize once you’re in it. Keep a low center of gravity as you’re transferring, and have a buddy stabilize your kayak as you’re getting in or out.

—Injury can also occur when you’re attempting to lift and carry a kayak by yourself. Good lifting technique, and avoiding needlessly heavy kayaks will prevent most.

—If you’re kayaking in the Atchafalaya Basin—between the two protection levees—it’s important to know the Atchafalaya River stage at Butte La Rose. This will give you a general idea of how wet things will be. Many trails become available only at higher river stages.

—Leave no trace. This means leaving the environment just as you found it. Take any trash, even a banana peel or an apple core, back home with you.

Kayaker’s Guide to St. Martin Parish