A good crab stew requires few flavors beyond what the crabs and some basic ingredients provide. The complexity of the dish comes from the fresh blue crabs, careful technique and the patient layering of flavors, not from a long list of added spices. Much of Cajun and Creole cuisine is driven by technique in this way. That’s the secret element that creates something truly special. The stew develops in stages, beginning with a roux, which is a mixture of flour and oil that’s gradually browned to create a rich base. To the roux is then added the so-called Holy Trinity—the trio of onions, bell peppers and celery fundamental to Louisiana cuisine. Finally, fresh blue crabs are added to the slow-simmering broth, which coaxes out complex aromas and every ounce of sweetness.

INGREDIENTS

12 blue crabs

4 tablespoons roux

1/3 cup chopped celery

1/3 cup chopped bell pepper

1/2 cup chopped onion

3-4 cups water

1 tablespoon chopped green onion

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

—Scald crabs in boiling water for 2-3 minutes, then remove from water and allow to cool.

—Clean crabs by removing the claws, the back shell, the smaller legs, the spongy gill sections and eggs, if present. Keep the claws and discard the rest.

—Season with salt, black pepper and cayenne pepper; set aside.

—In a four-quart saucepan combine roux with chopped onion, chopped celery and chopped bell pepper, and cook over medium heat until onions are translucent.

—Add seasoned crabs to roux mixture and stir to coat.

—Add 3 cups of water and cook uncovered over low heat for 30 minutes. Depending on the crabs, more water may become necessary as the cooking proceeds. The crabs should be almost covered by the liquid, but not completely.

—Stir green onion and parsley into stew immediately before serving.

—Serve over medium-grain white rice.

A Good Crab Stew

Au Revoir, Le Café